"The Levha sisters’ influential first restaurant that helped usher in French-Asian fusion in Paris: breakfasts can pair a tender croissant with spiced-vegetable lumpia, lunch offers comforting skinny noodles in clear chicken broth, starters include crisp, funky blood sausage wontons, mainstays feature exemplary sweetbreads in XO sauce, and meals often end with an unfussy, perfect Paris‑Brest that matches the restaurant’s democratic, technique-forward vibe." - Meghan McCarron