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"Now operating as a takeout counter and grocery on Beaubien Street just east of Saint-Laurent, J’ai Feng was promoted from Anita Yue Ming Feng’s pandemic-era undertaking after months of buzzy pop-ups and collaborations. I found the pint-sized space stocked with jars of her raved-over chili oil, pickles, and imported Chinese goods, alongside a takeout menu that highlights regional Chinese cuisine with an emphasis on Sichuan cooking; there’s space to sample on-site but room for only four diners. J’ai Feng is open Wednesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m." - Valerie Silva