
31

"Always an Adams Morgan favorite and a pioneer for its longtime drag brunch service, this ever-evolving Japanese restaurant has been transformed into a true destination since chef Masako Morishita took over the kitchen in 2023. Now a James Beard Award winner, Morishita keeps innovating with festive comfort food touches, and the restaurant has never been better. Japanese breakfast is the move here: for $42, there’s a generous sampling of standout dishes that might include a wagyu play on beef stew nikujaya or vegetables delicately poached in a strong dashi broth, alongside standard offerings of salt-cured fish, miso soup, pickles, and rice, plus an accompanying miso leek paste that wouldn’t be out of place filling an onigiri the next day if taken to go. Udon carbonara, which became a Morishita signature when it first hit the dinner menu, remains a delightful umami bomb with a nice toothsome texture and salty prosciutto in the mix. Sushi has long been a staple here and is quite good these days: the $35 chirashi is a reliable way to sample a variety, while the “tuna lover” combines pieces of nigiri, sashimi, tuna maki, and a crunchy tuna roll for $28, with good deals available during happy hour. Weekend mornings are best for either booking Japanese breakfast or the iconic Sunday drag brunch, when a good time is practically guaranteed. Japanese breakfast service also gives Morishita room to experiment, so the a la carte add-ons are not to be missed; recent highlights have included loaded tater tots with fermented shiokoji ranch dressing, an unimpeachable take on spam musubi, and a fruit sando on fluffy milk bread for a sweet finale." - Missy Frederick