"This Gowanus bistro — opened by Ian Alvarez, formerly of Momofuku Noodle Bar and Bara, and Ryan Angulo, an owner of French-American bistro French Louie — has a black, domed, wood-fired oven that roasts oysters with merguez sausage, smoked prawns (Eater critic Robert Sietsema recommends downing the shells), and chicken. Even the mandarin slices, served with the otherwise traditional baccalau, are given the live-fire cooking treatment." - Beth Landman