"A portal into the classy, romantic restaurant era of the 1990s, this Argentine steakhouse along Melrose Avenue has served old-school hospitality, well-grilled beef, and excellent wine since opening 28 years ago. Founded by the Bozoghlian family and now operated by two of matriarch Azniv’s sons — Max with front-of-house and Gerard in the kitchen — Carlitos Gardel has finally graduated to icon status. Start with plump shrimp over red chimichurri, followed by gently blackened sweetbreads and empanadas. The main event, a parade of carefully chosen wood-fired steaks, pairs well with creamed corn or sauteed mushrooms. Azniv was famous for her desserts, and Gerard worked in recent years to perfect the layered postre Gardel, a Genoise cake with dulce de leche and meringue. Why do so many Angelenos sleep on this restaurant when it rightfully deserves a place next to Musso & Frank, Dan Tana’s, and Tower Bar? Some questions cannot be easily answered, but just know that a night at Carlitos Gardel will be one easily enjoyed and remembered. — Matthew Kang, lead editor" - Eater Staff
