"Inside Harrah’s casino on Canal Street I discovered a high-end French brasserie that marks Emeril Lagasse’s first French restaurant; it opened this week and is launching with dinner service only while planning to add breakfast and lunch. Led by chef Eric Ivy, the menu draws on Lagasse’s early training and pays homage to his mentors, mixing splurgy items like a seafood tower and roasted bone marrow with brasserie staples such as French onion soup, tarte flambée, blue crab timbale, and steak frites au poivre, while still including local touches like turkey-and-andouille gumbo, crawfish and angel hair pasta, and hogs head cheese. The restaurant’s splashy, gold-tinged entrance belies an intimate but roomy dining area (about 170 seats in the main space, two private dining rooms, and a glowing marble bar that seats 30), and a 20-seat patio under construction will be the casino’s first outdoor seating; a photo wall traces Lagasse’s career from his early days in Massachusetts to the opening of Emeril’s in 1990. It is open for reservations and walk-ins for dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily." - Clair Lorell