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"Owner Malai Data began by operating a sidewalk setup on Sunset Boulevard—tending a steaming vat of gurgling beef stock and blanching fresh noodles amid passing traffic—and in November 2023 moved into a permanent plaza on the corner of Western Avenue and Hollywood Boulevard. The bowls remain steadfastly rich and savory with ample heat and textural components: a generous sprinkling of pork rinds that soak into the coconut milk and blood broth; meatballs made from scratch (obvious from their springy texture); tender, marinated meats available as beef or pork; and small, thin sen lek rice noodles chosen by the writer to keep consistency. The intentionally small bowl size (priced at $8.95) evokes the Thai tradition of sampling multiple permutations—small noodles dry, large with broth, pork vs. beef, or a switch to tom yum—and the tight portioning is part of the experience. The writer brings family: “To me, it tastes the most like home,” says her mother. With a fully outfitted kitchen after the move, the menu has expanded to include pad thai preparations (notably the pad thai Anusawari, “an old-school style with plenty of dried shrimp that’s flavored with sweetened radish and tamarind paste — ingredients popularized during less prosperous times in Thailand”), homemade sausages, sticky tamarind-glazed meatballs, wonton soup, steamed coconut custard for dessert, and the ability to slurp boat noodle soup and tom yum noodles any time of day. —Cathy Chaplin, senior editor" - Kat Thompson