
11

"On a recent night at Baby Luc’s, an accessible Brooklyn slice shop from the team behind the more exclusive Lucali, a staffer noticed I’d been caught cycling in a rainshower and invited me to sit inside — and to bring in my dripping wet road bike. Minutes later I was sipping a mezcal negroni ($13) and filling up on square slices piled with gobs of creamy ricotta and bitter broccoli rabe; of the four slices on offer (margherita, pepperoni, sausage, and broccoli rabe, priced $4–$4.50), the broccoli rabe is the only one I can recommend. The kitchen, however, often sent out denser, underbaked pies: the gas-fired pizzas lack the expected bubbly air pockets, the crust expands in your stomach, and the overall doughiness ranks among the heaviest I’ve sampled outside of Sbarro. The San Marzano tomato blend is only vaguely superior to supermarket sauce, the mozzarella stretches nicely but lacks memorable dairy flavor, and giant basil leaves create a jarring contrast; skip the margherita, and do marginally better with pepperoni or sausage where the meats mask what’s underneath. Still, the white broccoli rabe slice — where straightforward, creamy ricotta meets oven-burnished, sometimes crisp broccoli rabe — can be sublime, and the shop’s hospitality reminded me how vital slice joints are as neighborhood gathering spots and shelters from the elements." - Ryan Sutton