
2
"An ingenious lockdown-era pizza project by chefs Pam Yung and Helen Evans that treats a long-fermented, sturdy heritage-wheat base as a canvas for witty creativity and a showcase for British ingredients and farmers. Returning as a Sunday sit-down and takeaway service from 1 November (roughly 1–7pm) as a series of supplier collaborations beginning with Natoora, the pizzas—which previously tended to sell out—feature bold, unusual combinations such as braised greens with green Meyer lemon and bottarga; ricotta salata with lurid orange miyagawa satsumas; and black futzu squash with bitter leaves and sundried tomatoes. Soft-serve, noted for its creative swirls, makes a comeback alongside drinks overseen by Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts, and the whole project is framed by an attitude that prioritises personality and top-quality producers (Flourish Produce, Namayasai farm, Gothelney Farmer) over strict orthodoxy—one of the most inventive restaurant responses to COVID-19." - James Hansen