"At Passerine, a new upscale Indian restaurant a stone’s throw from Gramercy Tavern, chef Chetan Shetty, who is from Pune and has cooked in New Delhi, Washington, DC, and Chicago, plays with Indian flavors to make showy dishes, often enhancing humble recipes with luxury ingredients and thoughtful presentations. These bite-size dhokla ($10 per pair), part of his lounge menu, are squiggled with a pumpkin masala and decorated with pomegranate seeds for little tart bursts of flavor." - Robert Sietsema