
6

"Opened by Luca Varuni in 2014 and later expanded with a pizza counter at Krog Street Market, this Neapolitan pizzeria is widely regarded as one of Atlanta’s best bets for authentic Neapolitan-style pies. The marquee item is the margherita—Varuni’s favorite—which relies on three DOP ingredients imported directly from Italy: San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and Sorrento Syrrenyum extra virgin olive oil. Ingredients and technique are treated with near-religious care: San Marzano tomatoes are crushed for a creamy, sweet, low-acid sauce; dough is aged at room temperature, worked on marble to push air to the rim for a puffed crust, and seasoned with Il Sale dei Papi sea salt; pies are finished with fresh basil, buffalo mozzarella, a drizzle of EVOO and Pecorino Romano, then fired in a Stefano Fererra oven at about 850°F for 60–90 seconds while being turned multiple times. Varuni’s seasonal trips to Naples to source and ship ingredients every few months, plus his insistence on traditional methods, are presented as the reasons the margherita here ranks among the best in the city and stays true to the chef’s Neapolitan roots." - Beth McKibben