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"Steps from the University of Washington on University Way, this tiny 26-seat restaurant built a fervent following for intense spice levels and affordable classics like pad thai and swimming rama; crowds of young people packed the dining room to endure the waves of heat from the open kitchen. Chef and owner Tom Suanpirintra moved with the grace of a dancer—long black hair tied in a bun, silver jewelry dangling—working up to 11-hour stretches in a tight kitchen where oil, spices, vegetables, and meats had to be in precise physical alignment and staff would even stop production so he could take a brief break. The cooking was kinetic and theatrical—the fire would jump out of a pan, sometimes producing a four-foot flame that singed eyebrows, and former cook Travis Holley said those moments produced “the best meals of their lives.” Beloved for wonderful Thai food, a generous spirit, and an unmissable presence on University Way, Suanpirintra passed away suddenly on May 11, the day before his 55th birthday; Thai Tom continues under his well-trained successors, but the particular energy he brought to the neighborhood will be sorely missed." - Gabe Guarente