Imperial treasure

Imperial Treasure’s Michelin-Starred Peking Duck Thrills Fay Maschler | Eater London

"A polarising, high-end St James’s import that divides critics but, for some, justifies its brazen extravagance through meticulous craftsmanship. The multi-course signature duck is treated as the high point — an elaborately presented, almost artisan-crafted showpiece whose little squares of frangible skin deliver a remarkable depth of flavour and command a roughly £100 splurge. Accompanying pancakes are lauded as light, layered, fluffy and perfectly hot, while a light but labyrinthine stock with Chinese cabbage is singled out as almost as impressive as the duck. Lunchtime dim sum is a genuine strength: xiaolongbao boast bold stock and a superior filling; prawn toasts are described as big and busty; prawn-and-pork siu mai are spot-on; and crispy golden net prawn cheung fun combines a picture-perfect look with velvety prawns and a brittle tempura layer. Overall, there is real substance beneath the surface style, making it feel like a masterly, special-occasion destination rather than mere PR spectacle." - George Reynolds