

5

"An intimate, 8-seat omakase counter high above 14th Street offers just two reservation times each evening and a meticulously paced chef’s tasting led by Johnny Yi. Working from a zen, wood-framed station and a thick, square wooden slab, Yi sources imported delicacies from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market and composes a daily handwritten menu (the first day of service was Tuesday, October 8). The first seating (6–7:30 p.m.) runs about 15 courses for $125 and the second (8:15–10 p.m.) about 18 courses for $150, with curated wine and sake pairings available (list curated by sommelier Tara Ozdol). Yi—a 16-year sushi vet who sharpened his skills at Michelin-starred Nakazawa and Masa Takayama—frequently shaves fresh ginger for each course, slices and torches a rotating medley of tuna, mackerel, snapper, salmon, squid, and occasional wagyu, and showcases pricier Japanese fish such as hirame, ika (golden eye snapper), kinmedai, akame, chutoro, otoro, and ikura. The room feels like “home” fine dining—cozy, basement-like—and is accented by gyotaku fish prints made by owner Jenistar Ruksirisopha." - Tierney Plumb