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"Wading into Tay Ho in Oakland’s Chinatown, I encountered a sprawling 60-item menu that mixes regional Mekong cuisine with Vietnamese dishes, and highlights included a gorgeous cha cá lã vong fried catfish with an umami-rich pineapple and anchovy sauce, bánh khot turmeric cakes, and a wow-factor catfish curry served inside a coconut — arrive early for lunch if you want a table and a shot at the bánh cuốn noodle rolls." - Andrew Dalton