
5
"I was initially intrigued by the upscale South Texas–inspired point of view and promising menu when it opened in May, but the execution proved a mixed bag and I ultimately gave it my lowest rating of the year: a dismal 5.5 out of 10. Some dishes nailed a sense of place — the snapper was "salty with sprinkled furikake and swept up and blown through by floral cilantro and avocado purée," the barbacoa was "lush," and a "tender" filet with a green‑bean‑casserole accompaniment impressed despite its $50 price resembling swanky steakhouse pricing. Other plates fell flat: the pea risotto was "mushy and gravelly," the shrimp was "slimy with squid ink," and the grilled octopus missed the mark. I was also mystified to discover the smoked pork was sourced from Micklethwait Craft Meats given the restaurant’s stated emphasis on whole‑animal butchery. Desserts reinforced my ambivalence: the cheddar apple pie with oatmeal stout ice cream ($14) suffered from a stubborn crust and clumpy cheddar spuma, while the spiced squash cake ($12) — with piquant ginger sorbet and pecan toffee — reminded me not to judge dishes before tasting them. That said, a brunch blog had a more pleasant experience, particularly praising the paper‑thin potato chips." - Erin Russell