

9

"Opening November 1 within the recently opened Four Seasons Napa in Calistoga, I can feast on caviar toast for breakfast or slurp oysters during happy hour while cozying up to a fire pit on the stone terrace with views of the working winery and the Palisades Mountains. Led by chef Erik Anderson (formerly executive chef at two‑Michelin‑star Coi and Catbird Seat), Truss is starting with the more casual Living Room serving an all-day menu from breakfast through late-night snacks, while the fine-dining half, Truss Restaurant, is promised to open in the coming weeks. The kitchen leans on wine-country Californian ingredients and French techniques, with an emphasis on game birds—sourcing quail from Wolfe Ranch—and a private-label white sturgeon caviar from California Caviar Co.; the menu balances laid-back items like burgers and pizza with luxurious offerings such as fruits de mer and an indulgent strip loin with anchovy butter for two ($120). Breakfast is bolstered by pastry chef Josh Gaulin (Quince, Michael Mina, Meadowood) baking morning buns and coffee cake alongside rolled omelets and smoked caviar toast. Sommelier Morgan Grey has curated about 250 labels with strong local Calistoga representation, and bar lead Randy Languerand is crafting cocktails including bourbon washed in brown butter and a cardamom-infused vodka tonic. The indoor-outdoor, 150-seat space sits on the Four Seasons’ 26-acre estate on Silverado Trail at the foot of Mount Saint Helena, with floor-to-ceiling glass doors, an indoor fireplace, outdoor fire pits, a semi-private Vineyard Terrace, and a 16-seat Cork Room private dining area; hours begin with breakfast daily 6:30–11 a.m., and lunch/dinner Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri–Sat 11 a.m.–11 p.m." - Becky Duffett