The Best-Value Restaurants in East London Are Cheap, But Not Cheap Eats | Eater London
"The cooking at this East Ham Keralan institution has oscillated like a sine wave over the last decade, depending on the chef and which combination of the three owners is currently running things. It’s possible to catch them right now at a peak, with Pritti Gopinath, the wife of owner Biju back as its new chef. Curries and roasts have a depth of flavour and spicing that belies their simple descriptions, and (unless biriyani) should be mopped up with fluffy parottas or snow white appam, crisp around the edges and soft as skin. Even the legendary fries are somehow improved — half a chicken cut into segments then aggressively, skilfully fried with chilli and crispy onions, addictive netholi (anchovy) cooked and eaten whole, or battered mussels that thrillingly squelch and pop in the mouth. Vegetarians are well catered for with curries, sambars and chutneys, especially during Onam when the sadhya meal is cooked in 25 mini portions arranged on a single banana leaf." - Jonathan Nunn
