
9

"An all-day Arts District hang that refuses to be just one thing, this bi-level former bank space channels an underground-rave-meets-mad-scientist vibe, with brick walls, a high-fidelity sound system, and classical music echoing while guests sip coffee, matcha, or wine from a slim selection of bottles. The menu from former Yess sous chef Giles Clark straddles European and Japanese inclinations — think a katsu sandwich, fat-specked terrine, and shortbread-crust tarts — and it works whether I’m after a full meal, a mid-day sweet, or simply somewhere to show off an outfit. The katsu sandwich remains a staple: thick slabs of breaded pork on fluffy milk bread slathered with a Bulldog-esque sauce, cut into three easy-to-share slices. Whole garlic cloves and fried sage leaves are tucked into a tall tangle of crispy, salty french fries that are worth ordering on their own. A pristine lemon curd tart finished with a thin layer of bruleed sugar balances just enough sweetness with bright citrus tartness; a side of sour cream adds welcome tang, and the shortbread crust holds it all together without distracting from the filling. It can be difficult to find — look for the spray-painted plank of wood and a set of doors whose paint is peeling to know you’re going the right way — and if Frankenstein’s creature came to life here, he’d probably emerge with a penchant for matcha, pet nat, and Japanese fashion. Right now, it’s the place to be." - Rebecca Roland