
11

"A big, showy brasserie with as much spectacle as substance — from its giant Pegasus decor to a bold, blowy menu — but where the cooking largely lives up to the theatre: zucchini fritti are excellently thin and moreish, spaghettini with lobster is cooked tenderly to great effect, and even an over-the-top chocolate 'bubble' manages to be an elegant finale thanks to a soft mousse and texturally perfect crumb. The overall impression is of a sparkling, twinkling palace that pairs visual glamour with genuinely accomplished dishes." - George Reynolds