

3

"No longer basking in its early-2000s Cool Britannia hype, this Vauxhall restaurant still retains a striking Damien Hirst installation and a food ethos overseen by Mark Hix that feels forensic, simple and occasionally playful. Dishes lean toward classic, well-executed combinations — for example, potato gnocchi with Peter Hannan’s guanciale and wild garlic — and the menu flirts with modern touches like cockle popcorn. Weekend treats include “free-flowing champagne” at Saturday lunches for around £25, evoking a nostalgic gallery-restaurant glamour." - James Hansen