"Walk into Marylebone’s The Golden Hind and on the left there is a board documenting the effect immigration has had on fish and chips development: First three Italian owners, then two Greek, now in the hands of Antonakis Christou, who has been at the helm since 2002. The hand on the fryer is light here, with more filigree batter. This tactic works better on the fish than on the chips: the fish still retains its flavour and the batter follows the line of the fish exactly, hugging it like a crisp, tailored suit, whereas the chips never descend into decadence in the way the best examples do. In a nod to the Italian/Greek heritage, the must order item on the entire menu may actually be the deep-fried fritters of cheese, feta or mozzarella, salty and sinful, arriving as oozing Kubrickian monoliths." - Jonathan Nunn
