"What a thing of joy: not only is this candlelit throwback to Eighties bohemia still going, but it’s still good, too. Start with artichoke vinaigrette, dressed crab or smoked eel and apple salad, then eat wild bass fillet, Irish rosé veal, or confit duck leg. Watch out for the Etienne Sauzet Puligny and Domaine de Trévallon, lying in wait." - Adam Coghlan