Best Dishes Eater SF Editors Ate This Week: March 25 | Eater SF

"We were speeding up the Sonoma Highway on a cold, rainy Friday night when Golden Bear Station materialized as a welcoming beacon; like its predecessor Animo, the dining room exudes effortless charm while the menu leans toward affordable, familiar dishes like meaty Bolognese, margherita pizza, and classic steak frites. A sashimi-style yellowtail awash in brown butter and piqued with white soy was a highlight, but my hands-down favorite was the aglio e olio pasta with the optional clam add-on: perfectly cooked strands of spaghetti enveloped in a lemony garlic-and-olive-oil sauce, with colatura contributing deep umami and tiny bivalves scattered around the bowl. Dinner ended with a massive sundae built on a brownie base smothered in hot fudge — the ideal dessert to finish a meal celebrating how worthwhile unfussy food can be." - Eater Staff