
29

"At the Apparatus Room, the Eater Award–winning restaurant inside the Detroit Foundation Hotel, I watched meticulous chef Thomas Lents prepare the French veal tenderloin—one of the most popular dishes of the moment—which requires 36 hours of sous-vide cooking (not counting finishing and plating). It's a modern take on veal blanquette: rather than a stew, a whole slice of veal is plated with bright spring vegetables, flowers, and a bath of blanquette sauce, then glazed in a rich combination of butter and the meat's slow-cooked juices, producing an incredibly tender, flaky texture almost like fish. The kitchen turns through 36–40 whole veal chuck tenders a week and sells roughly 30 sliced veal tenderloins per day when the item is in season, using primarily Michigan-raised veal but sometimes importing from France to meet demand. Lents emphasizes teaching classic techniques to his cooks, building stronger relationships with local farms, and even developing an in-house butcher shop to ensure the consistency and quality he believes will keep the restaurant thriving for decades; I also got a step-by-step look at the process at Chef's Table, the Apparatus Room’s 12-seat sister restaurant." - Brenna Houck