Terrasse Season Isn’t a Salve for Village Spot Pho Viet | Eater Montreal

"On an unassuming stretch of Atateken Street in the Village, I found a small, decades-old family-run BYOB Vietnamese restaurant owned and operated by two sisters since 1988. They’ve been forced to wait on the sidelines of the city’s terrasse reopening because a fire hydrant on the sidewalk prevents them from building outdoor dining, so they can only reopen for on-site service once Montreal reaches the orange zone and will otherwise have to rely on opening their front windows when indoor dining is permitted. The sisters invested in plexiglass and other safety materials last year, shifted to takeout-only last fall (then struggled under the curfew), and opted out of third-party delivery because of the high fees; they report an 85–90% drop in business since the pandemic began and have been operating just 16 hours per week since January, so they’re understandably cautious about celebrating any return to normal. Food-wise, their Tonkinese soup—made to their grandmother’s recipe—is a highlight: the dark broth comes from abundant beef bones cooked for at least six to eight hours, then brisket fat for two hours, followed by hours more with ginger, onions, salt, sugar, cinnamon, star anise and coriander, producing a savoury aroma that fills the restaurant. They also offer pan-fried noodles with chicken, shrimp and sautéed vegetables, grilled meats with rice, and papaya salad with grilled beef, all available for takeout; over three decades Pho Viet has become a Village staple known for friendly service and reasonable prices, and the sisters are excited at the prospect of seeing familiar faces again." - Daniel Bromberg