
5

"In Koreatown, I found Jeong Yuk Jeom visually dramatic and positioned as a direct competitor to Parks BBQ and Gwang Yang BBQ, with brothers Andrew and Jaeyong Son having opened it in the summer of 2018; it sits in the upper cost tiers for Korean barbecue and shows uneven levels of hospitality. The name translates to "butcher shop," and I appreciated the prime-grade beef, dry-aged cuts, and presentation: the meats arrived richly marbled on a polished wooden board while the inset table grill fired up and servers filled the table with classic banchan—several varieties of kimchi (the cabbage kimchi leaves particularly delicate and appealingly spicy-fizzy), round slices of pickled daikon thin as veils, and a creamy celery salad. I found the brisket decent and the short ribs and wet-aged rib-eye more gratifying, but I took issue with some of the pricier dry-aged options: despite a stated 60 days of maturation, the steaks were surprisingly clammy before cooking and, while the meat delivered lushness, the flavor was mild until I bit into the fat and detected the telltale funk; the $49 dry-aged prime rib-eye is probably the way to go, while the $190 dry-aged tomahawk can be skipped unless you’re on an expense account. When the service finds its rhythm and the charcoal is white-hot, the pleasure of quality beef is obvious and Jeong Yuk Jeom falls into place as a fine, stunningly designed addition to K-town’s meat palaces." - Mona Holmes