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"I dined at Ensamble 43, a modern-rustic restaurant that opened in October 2019 and was taken over at the end of 2021 by chef Javier Méndez; in a setting of leather banquettes and a steel-and-glass dividing wall leading to a tranquil patio I sampled half a dozen raw-bar items such as a citrus-marinated ribeye steak tiradito, a black shrimp aguachile spiced with charred chiles, and a beet ceviche that can be made vegan, and also enjoyed Méndez’s abalone sopes, his riff on the Ensenada “fish of the day,” plus heartier plates like mesquite-grilled steak, suckling pig tacos, and pancetta al pastor." - Bill Esparza