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"Led by Oaxacan specialist Rocío Camacho, who opened the restaurant in 2017, the kitchen is devoted to intricately composed moles—many based on family heirloom recipes passed down through her maternal line. Fiesta mole samplers and the mole Oaxaqueño are standouts, while the manchamanteles is a darkly ruddy, ‘tablecloth-staining’ mole: sharp with chile heat, lightly smoky, and brooding in spice (best tempered with generous amounts of agua fresca). Nearly everything on the menu impresses, from picaditas and enchiladas—especially crisp corn enchiladas—to the Maria Bonita plate with grilled filet mignon; there are vegan options, but the joy here remains firmly rooted in the moles. The owner-chef periodically appears from the partially obscured kitchen to tend clay pots at the buffet, reinforcing the homey, ritual feel of the place." - Farley Elliott