"Set on the front patio of a home under a palapa with a single picnic table and wooden bar, this informal kitchen is run by a traditional Afromexicana cook who prepares intensely smoky, hickory-style moles made from charred chiles guajillo and chiles costeños. By special request she serves a mole de camarón — a blissfully smoky, briny stew of dried shrimp with a lingering dried-fruit sweetness — and a mole de pescado that incorporates tomato and fish oils from a boiled snook head for a stew-like richness; both are notably spicier than the Central Valley moles and showcase the Coast’s bold, seafood-forward Afromexicano flavors." - Bill Esparza