
16

"A cozy, dimly lit room that feels lived-in buzzes with enthusiasm for pizza, with music filling the air and a small, lively crowd that can make conversation a challenge across the 30-seat dining room and eight-seat bar. I’d open with the Caesar — a crunchy lettuce mix in house dressing topped with breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan, and whole white anchovies — and the Italian American classic sausage and peppers, the standout antipasti featuring four snappy, peppery links over roasted green peppers, onions, and potatoes (hearty enough to be its own meal, so pace yourself because pizza is on the horizon). The 14-inch tavern-style pies set the new standard here, thanks to an impressive cracker-thin crust and a build-your-own format: the fennel-forward sausage (the same recipe as the antipasti) is best paired with J.P. Graziano’s hot giardiniera, and Italian beef sourced from Mauro Provisions works just as well on a pizza as it does in a sandwich — combined with the giardiniera, it becomes a mashup of two iconic Chicago dishes. It’s also one of the toughest reservations in town, so plan to book weeks ahead; walk-ins are welcome, but arrive at the 4 p.m. opening, as on my visit every table was spoken for by 4:15 p.m." - Jeffy Mai