"In this week’s Hungry City, Ligaya Mishan writes a dispatch on Lamoon, an Elmhurst Thai restaurant where the chef Arada Moonroj is cooking in a restaurant for the first time. Moonroj, who runs the restaurant with her husband, makes dishes like nam prik, larb neua, and khao soi based on memories from her hometown. The result is 'thoughtful, detailed cooking,' Mishan writes." - Serena Dai