Eat Barbecue and Tacos in Dallas With a Chef From a Michelin-Starred Spot | Eater Dallas
"French- and Italian-influenced, this much-anticipated new restaurant is the project chef Christophe De Lellis opened after leaving his role as executive chef at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas to take a partner role in the Feels Like Home hospitality group started by Brandon and Henry Cohanim (Namo, Bar Colette). De Lellis moved to Dallas about a year ago, briefly ran the kitchen at Bar Colette, and settled with his family in Lakewood while ‘‘eating his way through Dallas,’’ learning to love two major food groups: barbecue (he says this place is his favorite so far) and tacos (he goes for Resident Taqueria). On moving from Vegas to Texas he says, “I was surprised that in Las Vegas on the Strip there isn’t barbecue. There are tourists from all over the world, and for most of them that equals American food. I never had barbecue until I moved to Texas,” adding that Europeans he’s brought to try it have loved it. His cooking philosophy—and what he expects to bring to the new spot—leans on classic stocks and clarity: “I love consomme,” he says, adding that it’s the “heart and soul” of his cooking, like a quintessential French chef would. He preserves a simple-but-precise approach in the spirit of his mentor: Robuchon’s dictum, ‘‘It is easy to make it complicated, but complicated to make it simple.’’ He’s also open about cross-pollinating techniques: “I would love to learn and understand the craft from a pitmaster around here,” he tells me, noting that even a French fine-dining menu can incorporate elements of barbecue technique." - Courtney E. Smith
