"Milder and less Instagram-frenetic than London’s spate of nu-Thai north of the river, Kin and Deum is more in the traditional vein — from three Thai siblings Shakris, Roselyn, and Bank Inngern. The site’s the inheritor to their father Suchard’s restaurant on Tooley Street — still there — and it nods back to a past both classic Thai, and classic British. Thai green curries are rarely seen on new menus today and most new operators would baulk at dishes which have all but lapsed into cliche. But the perennial truth of why cliches become such to begin with — because they are loved and delicious — seems to be behind the menu choices here. Signs of a kitchen finding its own footing, between past and future." - Virginia Hartley