The Best Restaurants in Camberwell, South East London | Eater London

"A casual eater walking into Victreatz might be tempted by a lunchtime jollof and chicken deal, emboldened by a ladle of hot stew on the side, but this would be to miss the best things that chef Victoria Cole makes, which are neither the chicken, nor the suya, but the pulses, starches and vegetables that define the soporific nature of Yorùbá cuisine. Ewa oloyin, honey beans, are cooked until they have soaked up enough stew that their cell walls threaten to dissolve, either eaten on their own luxuriating in their own sweetness as ewa riro, or mashed with a moat of hot pepper into ewa agoyin. Many stews and soups are done party style, with Cole wielding a lighter hand with the palm oil. Egusi, that ingenious seed, thirstily soaks up soup and coalesces into curds that are often compared to scrambled eggs or ricotta but should only ever be compared to egusi. All else that is required is a ball of pounded yam; some patience; and a roll of kitchen paper for wet fingers." - Jonathan Nunn