

5

"When Shake Shack tried its hand at Korean-style fried chicken, I found the execution deeply flawed: the chain’s version uses skinless white meat instead of the dark, bone-in pieces I prefer, the gochujang glaze on the patty tasted indistinct and murky, and the kimchi slaw was pallid rather than vibrant — overall I wouldn’t order the sandwich again. The nuggets grew on me because they are actual morsels of chicken rather than a pureed amalgam and tasted pleasantly salty, but their gochujang-mayo was oily to the point of reminding me of vaseline and I often preferred the nuggets without sauce. The fries were a disappointment too — frozen, rippled, chalky — and the gochujang sauce only improved them by comparison. Taken together, I view the gochujang fried chicken sandwich as one of the most poorly conceived and horribly executed things the chain has sold, and I worry that Shake Shack’s ubiquity could mislead diners about what Korean fried chicken truly is." - Robert Sietsema