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"Opened on March 20 in Palo Alto, I visited Ma’lawah Bar and found Jehassi’s permanent home for the jachnun and malawah of her childhood: jachnun is a dense, cylinder-shaped laminated roll cooked overnight for a tan, caramelized savory-sweet taste, while malawah uses the same laminated dough folded and pressed to resemble a pizza. At Ma’lawah Bar the malawah is more elaborate, offered with toppings such as shakshuka, falafel, hummus, and fresh cabbage salad, while the jachnun sticks to classic additions of grated tomato, hard-boiled eggs, and zhug. The operation focuses on takeaway (though seating is available), and because it’s kosher Jehassi uses margarine so her versions are lighter and fluffier than the original; they can be frozen, vacuum-sealed, and reheated at home. She plans to add hawaij-spiced soups and stews and would like to partner with a coffee provider, but for now it’s “about the food” — as she puts it, homemade goodness in your hand. Opens at 11 a.m. Sunday through Thursday." - Flora Tsapovsky