"Sometimes culinary buzzwords and archetypes need to be wheeled out, not in the service of laziness but because they must always come from somewhere. So when reading that this Sardinian lynchpin is rustic, traditional, unpretentious, and all that, please don’t be afeared. Wheels need not fear reinvention from generous plates of pasta — particularly anything with a showering of bottarga — but that’s entirely the point." - James Hansen