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"Once a pop-up, this North Center bakery now has a permanent spot, bringing top-notch baked goods and a few breakfast staples. Chef and owner Ángel Chávez draws on extraordinary skill and French technique to turn everyday pastries and holiday cakes into a year-round celebration. Most of the menu rotates, but I don’t skip the generously sized sourdough English muffins (take a bag home, savor them in a sandwich, or simply order one toasted) and the decadent chocolate babka. The kouign amann is a delightfully dense, simultaneously crispy and chewy little croissant cake topped with apple butter sauce and a slice of Brie, and the pain aux raisin is a laminated chef’s favorite with yellow raisins and just enough pastry cream; seasonal doughnuts are more cakey than fried. When I want something more robust, the expanded menu runs from chilaquiles and salads to a lox sandwich, and I go for the homemade sausage and egg sandwich on one of those English muffins, with hot sauces within reach. Drinks include a few classics along with café de olla and a latte flavored with cajeta. The vibe is modern nostalgia with soft music and seasonal decor; the bright, windowed space is better for a quick visit than a long sit-down, with counter ordering and food delivered to the table. Insider tip: boxes of day-old pastries are 50 percent off, and the bakery accepts online orders for seasonal cakes, including rosca de reyes and pan de muerto." - Brenda Storch