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"Opened by Matt McCallister after he closed FT33, this Oak Lawn restaurant balances the warmth of a neighborhood spot with a forward-thinking, modern approach. It foregrounds local and fermented ingredients in dishes like luscious barbecue short rib from Ennis’s Rosewood Ranch and cestini (basket-shaped pasta) served with coppa di testa. The kitchen also nails the basics—Parker House rolls served over a rich mornay sauce have already become an iconic Dallas item—and a strong team, including pastry chef Maggie Huff, keeps the ever-improving menu inventive and refined, reaffirming McCallister’s position near the top of the city’s dining scene." - Amy McCarthy