
5

"On 6 Avenue B at the corner of Houston Street, I visited G’s Cheesesteaks, a brand founded by Giacomo Pisano in 2015 in Staten Island’s Port Richmond that later opened locations on the Jersey Shore in Point Pleasant and Toms River; the Manhattan store opened earlier this month and its storefront is still concealed behind scaffolding. Inside, the space is awash in neon slogans and a jazzy orange color scheme with ample seating—upholstered banquettes and chairs with backs—and an employee taking orders from the back. The menu sprawls with over 50 items (around 150 counting variations), including build-your-own cheesesteaks, chicken tenders, cutlets, burgers, appetizers and desserts; recommended variations—like cheesesteaks with Mike’s Hot Honey, pepperoni, bacon, American cheese and Whiz, or with fried onions, cherry pepper mayo, Cooper Sharp and truffle Whiz—are decidedly not Philadelphia-approved. I found the classic cheesesteak ($16) to be the best: a spongy, bulbous hoagie roll piled with shaved meat and sautéed onions and a mix of Whiz and Cooper Sharp that created a wonderfully savory, creamy, salty and sharp combination. The prime rib steak ($18) aimed to be upscale with darker, beefier meat, mushrooms, Marsala sauce and provolone, but it was overcomplicated and not ideal for a cheesesteak. The cheesesteak egg rolls (two for $12) were a pleasant surprise—crispy cylinders filled with cheese, fried onions and provolone plus a spicy, duck-sauce–like condiment that made them taste almost like dessert, though I wished they hadn’t arrived already cut in half. The chicken wings (10 for $19) were plainish but not breaded; I had the mild Buffalo-style coating—acceptable if unremarkable—and they forgot my ranch, which was only a minor gripe. The smash burger ($16) was the day's real dud: the patties hadn’t been properly smashed, the cheese and onions slid out of the bun, leaving me with mostly plain ground beef; the fries, however, were pretty good." - Robert Sietsema