
7

"I found S Wan to be a low-key walk-down space named after its proprietor on Eldridge just south of Grand, with a row of small tables along each wall and a giant Chinese-and-English menu listing dozens of dishes and Hong Kong–style breakfasts designated with capital letters. Posters celebrate Chinese boy bands like Mirror and a soundtrack runs in the background while customers dash in for carryout and diners — both single and in groups — eat in a businesslike fashion and then leave; there are no laptops and people don't linger. When I arrived around 2:00 p.m. I ordered milk tea, handed to me in a paper cup with a discreet amount of sugar, and my breakfast "D" (upgraded with a pork chop and waffles) arrived: a slightly glazed, sweet thin pork chop; eggs cooked over easy so the yolks flowed when cut; and Eggo-sized waffles spread with peanut butter and sprinkled with white sugar. The $8 meal had an undeniable homey quality, as if assembled in one's own kitchen in a hungover blur, and made me want to explore the menu further (a tipster recommended the ho fun for its Fujianese influences)." - Robert Sietsema