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"Through an under-the-radar opening in early August, this Capitol Hill newcomer transformed the former Joselito space into a destination for Southeast Asian cuisine, serving some of the best Thai and Laotian curries around town. Named as a playful riff on som tom (papaya salad), as you walk in, you’ll spot the papaya salad station next to the bar, where both Thai and Laotian versions are mixed tableside with a mortar-and-pestle; the Laotian version leans on shrimp paste and pickled fish, while the Thai take uses dried shrimp, chiles, peanuts, and palm sugar for sweetness. The menu spans traditional noodle and wok-fried rice dishes (with more Laotian options coming soon), and authenticity is a stated priority. You can taste the contrast in gang ohm curry—Kia’s favorite—fragrant with dill and typically served with juicy pork belly; compared to Thai panang, it’s less about coconut richness and more about herbs and spices. A custom three-wok range anchors the overhauled kitchen, with every dish cooked to order and spice levels accommodated from mild to very spicy. The bar program features craft Thai beers and Mekhong whisky, plus a happy hour offering $4 spring rolls, $5 fried wontons and wings with a spicy jaew dipping sauce, and $5 wine and beer from 4:30 to 6:30 pm. Lunch brings a $15.99 prix fixe that includes a soft drink, spring roll, and choice of entree. Kia also claims it’s the first Laotian and Thai restaurant on Capitol Hill and says the neighborhood has warmly embraced the concept." - Tim Ebner