"Still the best siu mei in Chinatown, particularly the duck, whose well rendered thick blanket of fat and sweet marinade ensures queues every night. The Gerrard Street branch is better than the Wardour Street one, but the Little Four Seasons next door is a revealing, small microcosm of Chinatown’s direction, featuring the same roast meats alongside stew-like hotpots in a pivot to capture the new mainland student population." - Jonathan Nunn
