Paul Virant Continues to Crush the Suburbs | Eater Chicago

"A Saturday afternoon in Western Springs, about 30 minutes west of Downtown Chicago, finds a back private dining room filled with women enjoying brunch; the acoustics carry the laughter through the restaurant, an energy unexpected for a suburb of about 13,000. The brasserie offers a French menu with dishes like foie gras mousse, a goat cheese–filled mushroom tart, and plenty of wine and cocktails, and a service staff member goes out of his way to tout a special espresso martini not on the menu. Paul Virant, one of Chicago’s most celebrated chefs, whose first restaurant, Vie, debuted in 2004 in Western Springs, went on to partner with Boka at the prominent Lincoln Park corner of Clark and Wells before detouring toward Japanese cuisine with Gaijinin in Fulton Market; he also wrote a book devoted to pickling, Preservation Kitchen, and remains engaged in environmental and food-waste issues, appearing on a panel at Daisies in Logan Square. Virant demonstrated a rare understanding of the connections between food waste, food insecurity, and how solutions will cost money that could further inflate how much people pay for meals: “Is the consumer ready for food to cost what it should cost, reflected on the menus of our restaurants?” he says. “I don’t think so.” After 19 years, Vie closed in October 2023 (Virant blamed a dispute with the landlord), but this spring he bought the building around the corner and opened the new spot just 300 feet from the original, seeing a chance to fill a void for French food left by earlier closures; they've been opening in phases, adding brunch over the summer. He has watched families bring young children who try escargot for the first time. His cooks focus on the regular menu while Virant concentrates on specials like a white veal stew (blanquette de Veau). The specials are a little bit more adventurous, well, actually special, and Virant prefers that diners discover some dishes in person rather than via online previews. There’s a burger that’s garnered buzz, with perfect frites; French onion soup is described as stellar; the mushroom tart might be one of the most delectable bites of 2024. The restaurant recently drew an all-star crowd to celebrate esteemed chef Jean Joho, who helped make Everestone one of the biggest restaurants in America. Virant calls it a new chapter, reflecting on how diverse Chicago’s French scene has become; he’s been tweaking classics — for example, he’s started to use garlic in his haricot vert amandine recipe — and says subtle adjustments can be real “game changers”: “We’re not reinventing the wheel, as they say.” He also offers practical advice for visitors: “You know, it’s a quick, easy train from Union Station, and then you can Uber home,” he says. “And you can cocktail on the train.” Open 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for weekend brunch; and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. for weekend dinner, reservations via OpenTable." - Ashok Selvam