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"This small unpretentious shoebox of a place poised over the light rail station at New Dorp really rocks the pho, and they’ll let you depart from the pre-set beef combinations, which is how I scored a bowl with just brisket and beef balls — my two favorite inclusions. The broth is pleasantly plain, and not overly laden with cinnamon or five-spice powder, and the noodles are soft and of medium circumference. The raw white onion and cilantro make the broth soar." - Robert Sietsema
