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"In an eclectic Greenwich Village townhouse, this two-in-one project from Sushi Yasuda’s Mitsuru Tamura and natural wine vet Grant Reynolds of Parcelle pairs an intimate eight-seat omakase — run solo by Tamura, his first spot since he was handpicked to replace one of the biggest sushi names — with a living-room-like dining space of exposed brick, low-slung couches, and cheeky touches like mismatched dishware and candy-shaped chopstick rests. At the counter, the experience is traditional with hints of whimsy: a warm towel and finger wipes (it’s a sign of respect to eat sushi with your fingers) precede a $175 omakase of roughly 15 sushi pieces, a hand roll, and tamago; two pieces of eel sushi can appear as part of the progression. The shatteringly crisp yet flaky sea bass tempura, served with a delightfully kicky ginger tartare and a handful of yuca fries, is a standout. Even without the $75 pairing, the natural-wine selection is impressive — ask the team for a recommendation; I was charmed by the Masumi sparkling sake. The dining room skewed young on my visit, with plenty of age diversity at the counter. Take note: while I appreciated having a chair with a back and armrests, the counter’s chair height felt more suited to a regular table, though my taller dining partner wasn’t bothered. If you can’t snag an omakase seat or want more variety, the a la carte five-piece Mitsuru’s choice ($44) is a smart move; cross your fingers for fatty sea perch or citrus-flecked giant clam." - Stephanie Wu