"This local mini-chain with two branches in Brooklyn and two in Manhattan specializes in Shanghai street fare, with a special emphasis on dumplings and noodles. What that means as far as XLB go is a free hand with invention and variation. Aside from the usual, there’s a black soup dumpling made with medicinal chickens and another with a spicy soup inside. A goofy specialized plastic spoon, pictured, is provided." - Robert Sietsema, Stefanie Tuder, Erika Adams