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"Behind a 10-seat counter run by Osamu Sugiyama since the early ’90s, I experienced an eight-piece omakase (about $55) that feels like a steal: every nigiri comes from a seasonal specials board with rarity after rarity — sweet blue shrimp, baby lobster tail crowned with aioli and flying fish roe, delicate miso-dabbed snow crab, and sometimes lush Copper River salmon — served at a rapid-fire pace on plastic dishes in a loud, casual, quintessentially San Mateo room; arrive a few minutes before the 11:30 a.m. opening to avoid the line and secure a seat at the counter." - Luke Tsai