"Named for Denver’s onetime Chinatown, Tommy Lee’s RiNo mainstay is the complete package: edgy vibe, kinetic cuisine, progressive beverage program, and all. The kitchen plays up bold flavor contrasts — cooling against tongue-lashing, mellow against pungent, bright against luscious — without ever losing its balance, while the bar dares to pair them with everything from bubbly and rosé to craft cider and funky punches. Staples include chilled tofu in sesame bang bang sauce, cumin lamb buns, and bone-marrow fried rice; seasonal dishes might be things like beef ribs in a Palisade peach–hoisin glaze or charred cabbage with whipped peppercorn tofu, umeboshi, and lap cheong. (For a special occasion, the chef’s counter is open Thursday through Saturday with a compelling multi-course tasting menu.)" - Ruth Tobias, Eater Staff
